Trapped in Paradise

A beautiful passageway through the mangrove 

 Exuma‘s land and sea park is a real treasure. We headed for the southern tip of Shroud Cay so we could dinghy through the mangroves to the ocean. Our stop in the park was one that requires timing of the tide so I listened carefully to Sheri’s tide calculations and agreed that we wanted to go in on the mid morning tide and return after lunch. 

It seems a little odd that the current was flowing so strongly as we were going in but we were excited to see the turtles and focused on our route. Well nature decided to close off ocean access so we beached the dinghy and found a shady hilltop to set up to enjoy the beautiful beach and ocean. 

 A dead end

After a Long Beach walk I went back to check the dinghy anchor and found the water had receded more so I marked the level and with each visit all afternoon the water kept disappearing. I talked with some people who had walked across the sand flats and we all thought we would be there a while. The water would have long returned if were a stream to the ocean but it was now the end of a huge bay and it needed to stop emptying before it came back. 

And it kept Disappearing

Our place to wait out the tide

We passed the time having lunch, swimming, enjoying the view, and watching the wildlife in the tidal pool that was once a

Around 4 We packed up our stuff and I pulled the dinghy through the shallow water and eventually, slowly we made it to water that was deep enough to put the engine partially down. It was a nice place to be trapped for 6 hours though. 

I was just happy the water was coming back!

We are on the way before 8 AM to enjoy a beautiful sail to O’Briens Cay which is another great Land and Sea Park stop to snorkel in the area known as the Aquarium. This spot is next to Johnny Depp’s island (we read he was in but no sightings) and Aga Khan’s— the wealthy hereditary spiritual leader to the world's approximately 15 million Ismaili Muslims. However the fish and coral are the stars here.

The weather is adjusting our plans so we set sail early Thursday for Big Major Cay so we can get a good spot out of as much of the forecasted 25 kt winds coming this weekend. Also we needed milk for coffee…very important. Another sailing day …Yay🥳

Next settling in for the blow 

Moving through the Islands

 Sunrise Wednesday and three depart. Reviewing the morning weather showed conditions had improved for the northern route. Lighter winds smaller waves up north and for us the winds were almost too light as we worked our way down to the northwest channel and out by Chub Cay. The last six hours we motor sailed just off the wind and seas. We made good time but it was not as comfortable as either of us wanted. 

 Lots of  yachts towing 30 foot+ dinghies with multiple outboard engines

As we approached West Bay we saw that Betula was about a half hour ahead. I almost had taken the northern route when I saw the improved conditions which provided a wind angle for sailing and always better/faster than our day. The big plus of the morning was a couple of hours under just the Asymmetrical spinnaker where we had a time going above 8kts. 

We spent 2 nights in West Bay. Thursday a trip to see the underwater statues was put off because of water conditions but the seasons first snorkel on the shore of Clifton Point was a fine second option. 

Pearl Island Light between Athol and Rose Islands 

Not wanting to repeat the trip down from the Berry’s I decided to move to the north east corner of New Providence where I could have a better wind angle for the trip down to Allen Cay. Leaving West Bay we sailed for a couple of miles then slogged our way along the N shore. It was calmer when we came inside the reef near Sandals resort and our old abandoned Guanahani time share property. So many memories of the vacations flood back as we weaved through the shallows towards Nassau. Past the busy downtown with five ships in was good to see after last year’s total shutdown. We anchored in the lee of Athol Island where the lights of the ships and resorts filled the sky.

By 9am Saturday we cleared Porgee Rocks we got on the lay line to Allen and sailed. Just sailing is nice. We pulled in the sails 1 mile outside the anchorage between Allens and Leaf and after a few anchor settings we found a comfortable spot. The colors were beautiful and the water calm.

Sunday morning and off to the beach to visit the iguanas. After a half hour we went back to the boat and at nine the high-speed tour boats began to arrive from Nassau.

A steady stream of boat bringing hundreds of people through the course of the day. We packed up the dinghy and headed for a small beach and had a late PM wood fired bbq. Normally I just stay away from large power boats and yachts that run their generators all night long but I need to add charter boats to the list. They anchor to close, are to loud and even the sail boats run their generators too much. What a curmudgeon😁

Before we left Allan and we went back to the beach to try a trick I saw one of the tour operators do

It was fun

Our next stop was in the lee of Normans Cay to walk the mile Long Beach and explore. They have built a great new private marina at the southern tip that we dinghy toured and we almost got a beer at McDuffs but no mask no service. The walking and swimming exercise was necessary! 

I always think of my friend Laurie G when I see images in clouds and rocks… What do you see in the big cloud

Look for the birds little tongue and slow the film down and watch the move one bird puts on the other after he tries to come in

Crossing and clearing

Several times in the gulf stream we saw these

They are called Blue Bottles. A bunch of floating parasites 

getting through the shipping channel during the day

 We were up and away by 8am Saturday 2/18. The weather window was good and we rode the Gulf Stream northeast to South Riding Rock and then across the banks to great Harbor in the Berry islands. We motor sailed and averaged around 8 kts all day. Around 9am we were leading a couple of other boats down the channel by giving depth readings up to the stone cut entrance of Great Harbor. 

The marina said they had dock space for us to tie up as we cleared customs and immigrations. As we made the final turn toward the dock I heard Sheri call out Hi Carl and taking our bow line was our old friend from White Stone Virginia. He was assisting the new owners of his catamaran as they traveled from Virginia to the Bahamas. He and his wife Deb were the people who  guided us to the Bahamas the first year and we also traveled up to Nova Scotia with them. Once cleared in we got our SIM card for WiFi. 

We were able to find out that Lindsey was in labor and admitted to the hospital. We joined Carls group in a walk across the island to the beach club for an afternoon of beach, beverages and barbecue.

Overnight Lindsey gave birth to Sophia Deignan Huang @12:30 2/20/22. This little hummingbird weighed in at 6lbs 5ozs. A very special day for the arrival of Sophia grandchild number 4. 

Steadfast at rest in Bay of the Five Pirates 

Time to make English muffins

With winds picking up we stayed in our safe anchorage and I spent a couple of hours kayaking around the inlets of the harbor. We joined Carl, the new owners and Bob a friend and sailing buddy on Ino (formally River Rat) for hours of story telling. These gatherings are always nice.

See you later River Rat/Ino

Monday was laundry, our final Covid test and saying goodbye to Ino as they staged for a crossing to Nassau. I also loaded up on diesel by using our 5 gallon containers to fill the tank and give us 3 extra containers strapped to the port rail. 

Bridget Bardot beach at great Harbor

Stingray included

On our last full day we purchased 10 gallons of water, tried to buy milk, went to the beach and had drinks with Warren and Karen on sv Betula. They were also going to west end New Providence Tuesday but headed N around the Berry’s. We decided to take the Southern route over the bank to the NW channel near Chub Cay. 

. Next Moving down the Islands

January 27 Launch

Tomorrow is Thursday/Launchday but tonight I don’t feel well. Up early to stand in a frigid pre dawn line for a Covid test the day of my launch is the last thing I want to do but the most important thing. The test is negative so my neighbor Dom and his wife come by to get our car at the marina as we finish loading water and supplies.

The first night out is against the side of a small island in Terra Ceira Bay called Bird Key. It was just 3 miles from the marina but 1,000,000 miles from all of the hassle and busyness. The next morning we set out before sunrise on a low tide and while pushing through some sand we work our way into Tampa Bay and down to Pine Island to hide from some big winds. After 2 days there we head for Indian Key and a special anchorage in the Everglades. 

A calm anchorage in Everglades national park

The dot is our location

It was very cold

This homeowner takes storm surge seriously

Stone crab lunch

We meet two couples there and on the last night had hors d’oeuvres and drinks together. One couple was older and had spent a decade on their boat before Conrad had a stroke. After a 5 year hiatus they bought another boat and fixed it up to return to the Bahamas but as they were close to leaving another minor stroke means they stay in the states. We are taking a package of gifts to their friend who runs the laundromat in Black Point Bahamas. The other couple is from New Zealand and recently bought a catamaran and hope to get all the systems working properly and head to the Bahamas in March. 

Returning fisherman entering Marathon

Thank you dinner out with Mike and Brenda

We spent 4 nights there then it was off to the inside of Marathon near where Mike and Brenda, my daughter Joanna’s, in-laws had rented a place. They agreed to help us with laundry, food, fuel, water and finally drive us thru Walgreens for a COVID test. 

On the morning of day 2 we returned from the final errands to see our test results, Positive…both of us. We were shocked as the trip was off, the next steps uncertain and how did this impact the Parkers. Thankfully they did not get covid from us and their family vacation was saved. 

The next 10 days we moved from anchorage to anchorage avoiding strong winds and waiting for another chance to get the right weather to cross. We spent a couple of hours one night in 20+ knot winds resetting our anchor three times as it would just drag through the weeds. Thankfully that doesn’t happen too often.

The famous upside down jellyfish as we kayak around the mangoes further north in Everglades national Park

In the middle of this is a broken transmission fluid cap that I repaired, rebroke, made a replacement for  and ordered a new one. The Fairfield Marriott just opposite our anchorage agreeded to receive the package on my behalf. 

Beach Day in Miami

After a three nights anchored off Virginia Key in Miami a weather window was opening, our replacement part was coming, our Super Bowl viewing was completed and we were ready to go. Plus after 18 hours a day of very loud Latin music I was ready for for two days of true sailing to get back to Marathon.

Thanks Kimberly

 The part was delivered then 48 hours of frantic looking and phone calls finally found in a second-floor storage room at the Fairfield Marriott. All the employees were helpful but one stood out and I captured her smiling face.

Because Mike and Brenda were entertaining family we found that water, fuel, laundry, shopping for food and a Covid test we’re just a logistical problem that worked out fine. We got our test and headed for the laundromat. Before the clothes were dry we had negative results and our spirits were lifted.

All of the documentation was approved by the Bahamas and we moved the boat closer to the Channel Five Bridge for a departure on Friday 2/18.

Our spot prior to leaving… Route 1 is very loud

Next crossing to the Berry Islands